Two and a half months ago, I road tripped to the Grand Canyon, Las Vegas, Grand Canyon (again), and Santa Fe. It was a pretty spectacular trip if I do say so myself. I had to curb my chit chat because I’m sure everyone was tiring of my Canyon anecdotes. It was a trip I had been wanting to take for a long while. I went with one expectation: a view. Everything else, I would figure out on my own in the midst of it.
I haven’t been camping since my 15th birthday party. And that was a camping in Iowa twenty minutes from my bed for a night with friends kind of a camping “trip”. I had never been camping camping. The good luck kind of camping trip. Not only was I camping for the first time in half my life, I was camping the Grand Canyon, where the nearest Walmart was 75 miles away. Oh, and I did it alone.
Hopping in the car and driving away from my very cushy bed, I knew there were only two options for this trip:
- I would LOVE it.
- I would HATE it.
Luckily, I loved it. Truly, deeply loved it. In a subtle yet distinctive soul shifting fashion.
Driving West into Arizona, the sun rose revealing mountains, plains, cliffs, plants, and life glowing gold in the early morning light. Tears rolled down my cheeks as I drove on. So much of what I do revolves around social justice with a focus on gender and racial equity. I’m not ignorant of this country’s history. Living in a city that has washed away every trace of the Native People makes it easy to forget I live on stolen land. But something about that particular drive, taking in the landscape, I was overwhelmed with the weight of my own privilege and the suffering that has occurred across the country in the past and in our present.
Four hours away from the Grand Canyon, I knew I wanted to use this trip as more than an excuse to center myself, connect with nature, and take a break from the hustle of life. I was going to learn. As much as the Canyon itself has so much information to offer, I have always been more interested in the stories of people. I wanted to learn about the people who lived and died by the Canyon long before colonizers arrived. I needed to make it a point to honor the Indigenous People who continue to live and fight for their land.
I drove straight to the canyon rim and looked on with awe. Then I turned around and walked straight to the book shop. Duh. I bought a bunch of books and asked rangers and employees about which ones they suggest or were written by Native authors. Along my walks and hikes, I read every single plaque I came across. Stopping in Flagstaff on my way to Las Vegas, I found a bookstore that had an entire section dedicated to Native History and another bigger section dedicated to local Native history and authors. I ended up accumulating a lot of knowledge on my trip, and I’m still working my way through the books I bought. So I’m going to share some Grand Canyon knowledge.
- Havasupai people lived and farmed inside the canyon at Indian Garden along what is now Bright Angel Trail until 1928. 1928! Less than 100 years ago. They were forced to leave by the National Park Service.
- Uranium was discovered in the Orphan Mine in 1951. From 1956 to 1969, Uranium was extracted from a mine near the South Rim of the Canyon. I could see where it was while walking the Rim Trail. There are fences and signs all over essentially saying keep out with a fun twist saying “ecologically fragile,” but the meaning is actually along the lines of, ‘Stay out because this area is inundated with toxic and radioactive waste that hasn’t been cleared.’ So really, don’t sneak past those fences.
- The six major tribes living around the Grand Canyon are the Hualapai, Havasupai, Navajo, Hopi, Paiute, and Zuni people. They have inhabited the Grand Canyon plateau for a very long time.
- Mary Colter, a prominent architect, designed some of the most famous buildings in Grand Canyon National Park, including Desert View Watchtower. In the male dominated field, she managed to create an architectural aesthetic that would last and influence the American West for generations.
- Humans have been living in and around the Grand Canyon for 12,000 years, at least, that’s how old the oldest documented human artifacts are. White people arrived via Norse settlements on the continent as early as the tenth century… So the Grand Canyon was inhabited a casual 11,000 years—give or take—before white people started fucking shit up.
- What looks like mountain goats are actually bighorn sheep. They’re cool. I saw a family of them, hiking the South Kaibab Trail.
- The Hualapai Tribe built the famous Skywalk that projects 70 miles over the canyon with a glass floor. It’s one of the most visited attractions in Grand Canyon West, and when you’re visiting it, you’re supporting the tribe instead of the federal government. So much of the Grand Canyon belongs to tribes, who benefit from that tourism. Make sure to be respectful, take the time to learn about their history, culture, traditions, and obstacles they face in today’s era. Oh, you should check because many require reservations in advance.
- There is a North Rim and South Rim of Grand Canyon National Park. South Rim has more amenities and is the more visited of the two rims. It’s where I went, solely because there were no campsites available on the North Rim, which is known as being quieter and more remote. Though the two lodges are only ten miles apart if you hike through the Canyon, the drive takes five hours and 215 miles to go from one to the other.
- The Canyon can be a luxury getaway or a wilderness exercise. I chose to lean more toward the latter. I camped on the South Rim, which has hotels, restaurants, coffee shops, rentals, campsites, a post office, general store, and so many amenities. I didn’t have any cell reception or internet access, but I definitely did not feel like I was in the wilderness… until I went below the rim. As the signs make sure to drive home the information: Once you go below the rim, you’re on your own. Rescue is not guaranteed, and even if help comes, it could be a good long wait. On all but Bright Angel Trail, the water you have is the water you have. There’s a sense of good luck and don’t be stupid every time I hit the trail. The further you go, the less people there are. On the South Kaibab Trail, I went well past Skeleton Point for a total of nine miles round trip. I didn’t see a single person from mile two to mile eight and a half. There was also a big storm, so the experience was a tad frightening at certain points.
- The Grand Canyon Pink Rattlesnake, or crotalus oreganus abyssus, is only found in the Grand Canyon, especially prevalent along the North Rim. It is venomous, so if you see one, do not approach.
- There is one hotel inside the Canyon. When I say inside the Canyon, I mean it’s on the floor of the Canyon. Half a mile from the confluence of Bright Angel Creek and Colorado River, it was designed by Mary Colter. There’s a lottery for reservations that is pulled thirteen months in advance. There are three ways to get there. Raft the Colorado River. Take a mule. Or a ten mile hike via Bright Angel Trail or a seven and a half mile hike via South Kaibab Trail.
You could spend a lifetime exploring and researching the Grand Canyon, which many people have done and continue to do, so this is really just a highlight reel of interesting things I learned. The moment I left, I couldn’t wait to go back. I’m ready for my next adventure.
bisous und обьятий,
RaeAnna
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